Hikes like the H2H are actually much easier from the packing
perspective: you take as little as you possibly can because it is all
going to be on your back every day. Using a luggage service like we
are doing on the SWCP introduces too many options into the
calculation. I find myself looking into my gear cupboard and thinking
things like "Well, I could take those gaiters and wear them on those
days when long pants would be too warm but the paths are overgrown
with brambles and nettles." Or Lidia says "You could take three nice
shirts with you, oh, and a couple of pairs of long pants for
restaurants as well." and little does it avail me to say that I don't
have room in my bag because she of course does in hers. And then
there are the books and games... how many times have I taken too much
of both with me on normal vacations? Well, I'm about to do it again.
No, there's a lot to be said for iron-clad constraints... and today
I'm missing them.
Thursday, May 05, 2011
Tuesday, May 03, 2011
The South West Coast Path
For those who don't know the long distance trail we are going to be hiking, here's a short summary.
The longest hike in England, the SWCP starts in Minehead, Somerset, goes all the way around the Devon and Cornwall coasts, and finishes, over a thousand kilometers and 35,000m of ascent and descent later, near Poole, Dorset… just a few miles from where I used to spend my childhood summer holidays at my grandparents' house.
Along the way, it passes through five Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty, seventeen Heritage Coasts, a National Park, two World Heritage Sites, a UNESCO Geopark and Britain's first UNESCO Biosphere reserve. We'll only be doing the northern half of it in 2011… but both coasts are equally stunning.
The SWCP is, first and always, a coast walk… only very rarely out of sight of the sea… and what a varied and beautiful coast it is! From rocky headlands to sheltered coves, from towering cliffs (the tallest in England – almost 250m – are found along the path) to deep-cut river valleys and wide estuaries (17 large ones with ferries, and innumerable smaller ones crossed by bridge or waded), from long sandy beaches and extensive sand-dune systems to shimmering rock-pools, from moors to woods to marshes to farmlands, from bustling towns such as Padstow and St. Ives to tiny fishing villages such as Clovelly and Boscastle, the coast is astoundingly varied and continually changing.
And then there's the history and culture. Southwest Britain has been inhabited since the Stone Age and every people and culture seems to have left remains. There are Neolithic standing stones; Bronze and Iron Age hill-forts; Roman roads; Celtic and Saxon and Norman and Tudor and later castles and manors and churches; farmhouses, inns, and town-halls from the early Middle Ages onwards; harbours and lighthouses and other structures dedicated to shipping and fishing; mines and mining relics from pre-history to the present day; steam trains, water-powered funiculars, canals and locks, and other creations of the Victorian Industrial Age; and many beautiful gardens and arboretums. Yes, there's plenty to see along the way.
And let us not forget the pleasures of daily life. From ancient inns with log fires, to friendly B&B's with full English breakfasts, to cream teas with home-made scones, strawberry jam, and local clotted cream, to Cornish pasties and fish and chip shops, and the many fine restaurants that have made the British gastronomic wasteland an unlamented thing of the past, the needs of the flesh will not be ignored!
However, since I've only been to the area once, and that in 1992, perhaps you might like to read a few independent assessments? Here's what some other people have said about hiking the SWCP (copied from the official website of the path -- www.southwestcoastpath.com -- which is very well-done and which I strongly recommend you browse through):
o When the readers of Country Walking magazine, Britain's biggest-selling walking magazine, were invited to vote for Britain's Greatest Walk, the South West Coast Path was a clear winner, with their reporter, Jenny Walters describing the path as "630 miles of unparalleled gorgeousness".
o Travel writers and photographers Clare Jones and Steve Watkins picked just 30 classic walking routes for their book, Unforgettable Walks to Take Before You Die published by the BBC. They spent nine months traveling to 24 countries on 5 continents to find the world's most inspiring, spectacular and beautiful trails (but despite this inexplicably left out the H2H). Their book ranks the South West Coast Path alongside experiences such as New Zealand's Routeburn Track, and hiking the Inca Trail in Peru. When asked why they had included the Coast Path, Steve enthused: "Throughout a whole year of walking around the world, I was hard pressed to find anywhere that matched the natural drama and stunningly beautiful light along the South West Coast Path. You can't beat it for the sheer diversity of landscapes and the chance to experience some truly wild and beautiful coastal scenery."
o Drawing on the knowledge, passion and miles traveled by Lonely Planet's staff and authors, Best in Travel 2009 highlights the best places to go and things to do around the world and includes the South West Coast Path as one of their world's best walks. "Along its route, you'll find Mediterranean-turquoise bays, historic ruined tin mines, a rock-hewn abbey on its own island, surf beaches, deserted beaches, grey seals and basking sharks, and the best Cornish pasties in the land." Sarah Baxter who wrote the chapter has spent the past six year's writing, trekking and travelling the world for Wanderlust magazine, where she is currently deputy editor. She's fond of water in all its forms, having snorkeled with killer whales in Arctic Norway, floated among glow worms in New Zealand's caves and touched the snows of Kilimanjaro. But, she reckons, "nothing beats standing on a cliff, pasty in hand after hiking a chunk of the South West Coast Path."
Can it really be that good? Stay tuned....
Monday, May 02, 2011
Well-wishers... or "How can I help?"
Our very good friend Christine, who will be hiking with us for the
first week, has had some blister issues while training and asked,
perhaps because she has been spending a lot of time in Ireland
recently, if there are any saints for the footsore. After many seconds
of research, I came up with the following list of saints for whom, if
you are so inclined, you could light candles to help us along our way:
first week, has had some blister issues while training and asked,
perhaps because she has been spending a lot of time in Ireland
recently, if there are any saints for the footsore. After many seconds
of research, I came up with the following list of saints for whom, if
you are so inclined, you could light candles to help us along our way:
o Saint Christopher -- patron saint of travellers. A 2.3m tall
Canaanite, martyred in the 3rd Century, he provided a one-man river-
crossing service (he carried travellers across on his back). Also
patron saint of bachelors, transportation, gardeners, and storms, and
his name is invoked epilepsy and toothache.
o Saint Petronilla -- patron saint of mountain travellers. French,
1st Century, said to have been the daughter of the well-travelled
Saint Peter. Also patron saint of French dauphins, and the treaties
between Popes and Frankish emperors, and for good measure her name is
invoked against fever.
o Saint Bernard of Menthon -- patron saint of Alpinists, mountain
climbers, mountaineers, skiers, mountain travellers, and the Alps in
general. Born in Savoy in 923, died 1008 (long life no doubt due to
lots of mountain hiking). He established hospices at the passes that
later came to bear his name (the Great and Little St. Bernard) from
which monks accompanied by specially bred dogs sortied to find and aid
travellers caught in storms.
...or perhaps most appositely (given the proximity of Cavaillon to our
village of Eygalières in Provence):
o Saint Veran of Cavaillon, about whom it is written: "Ordained in
540. Hermit in Vaucluse, France. Pilgrim to Rome, Italy. Bishop of
Cavaillon, France in 568. Godfather of King Theodoric II. His
miracles, which included freeing a captive dragon and miraculously
healing the foot of a nobleman, which had withered after the nobleman
had kicked Verano for not delaying Mass as requested, are mentioned by
Saint Gregory of Tours."
Saturday, April 30, 2011
Itinerary and hikers
In case anyone is going to be in England between mid-May to mid-June and is interested in dropping by to visit us, here's our itinerary, as well as who is going to be hiking each day.
G = Guy, G&L = Guy & Lidia,
R = Russell, S = Sally, R&S = Russell & Sally
C = Christine
F&I = Franz & Ingrid
T&S = Thomas & Suzi
JP&F = Jean-Paul & Françoise
TB = Thomas B., T&G = Thomas & Gabi
M&R = Marcus & Rochelle
Stage Date Hikers Accommodation Address / website
<free> Sat May 21st G&L, T&S, JP&F <ditto>
<free> Sun May 29th G, T&S, R&S, TB <ditto>
16 Mon May 30th G, R&S, TB Trevemedar Cottage, Porthcothan. 01841-520185 (no website)
<free> Sun June 5th G&L, R&S, T&G, M&R <ditto>
Friday, March 18, 2011
South West Coast Path upcoming...
After long silence... I'm back! And with another long hike planned: the South West Coast Path around Devon and Cornwall. I'll just be doing the northern half this time -- Minehead to Penzance -- and will take about a month from Friday May 13th to Friday June 10th. About 15 friends and relatives will join me for various stretches, and I'll be writing all about it on a daily basis here.
Stay tuned....
Tuesday, July 15, 2008
Russell's afterthoughts
Day #4 ONE YEAR POST REMINISCENCE
Today was the day that we met Rickard Maerz whilst avoiding the original plan of ascent descent repeat ascent and gondola down. In fact, thank Neptune, as the whole thrust of the journey was to avoid mechanized transport, the group decision based upon individual pain/ torrential suffering, not to take mechanical adjunctive intussusception, was maintained. Sally rightfully points out that the original plan was to take the gondola back up to the previous day's ending point; however, the temperature of group response as outlined by our leader in his blog one year ago, suggested a somewhat chilly reception to the whole "hike more rather than less" attitude.
Even in the earliest days of our hike, it was clear: Guy was out to test us. 'Twas equally as clear, we were out to test him right back! Mr.Exercise, (does situps during any free moment, Mr.I'll-put- as- much- stuff- in- my- backpack- as- possible I can carry anything including your stuff Mr.Opthamologist -Nutritionist sees the truth in the question do you think you can afford to eat that ? you fat phuk Russell ) independently polled both Sally and I with such questions as:
Is he serious?
Does he have a death wish?
Why are we going back up?
Why are my fricking feet starting to hurt ? (telepathically communicated)(rhetorically constructed)
Our paranoia at this point however leads us to believe that perhaps Dave's conversations with Guy were as follows:
Are they serious?
Are they that out of shape?
Why are they complaining so much?
They keep telling me their feet are fricking hurting perhaps because they are overweight heifers!?
We however remain convinced that on Day #4, today one year prior, Dave's feet were in agony and he expressed this to us in many both non-verbal and visually intepreted ways.
The day's summary in retrospect has to be in praise of precipitation. Due to the overwhelming droppage of water, the group decision, highly ruddered by neophytically whining ( later we we're to become much more accomplished) back-seat sea-kayakers, was, after cowering (whilst treading water) under the eaves of some nameless building (floating on pontoons) near a road *whereupon many motorcyclists seemed to be enjoying the slip factor upon some most dangerous of bends), to paddle around an endless lake (in retrospect probably two or three times", until we reached our destination, a harbor slip. My sentence construction abilities are exceeded only by my typing thumb eptitude!
There was no lake view from our room at the Inn. The only view was of a never to be taken gondola station. The room smelled of the sweat from our shoes placed in the window sill. Dave's fat consumption overload gauge read flaming greasy-yellow, though his breakfast-ometer was still in the tolerable but please no more zone. My rash precluded any further thought or capability of hiking and my and Sally consumption of prophylactic, yet considered needed, narcotic cough preparations began. One for you, two for me, I am fatter and need more.
Pain wise. the only possible applicable measuring stick, ratings were as follows: Day four terrible. Day 1-3 worse still. The only saving Grace within days 1-3 were friends & company (fantastic 4), BEA ARNULF, & the ever repetitively transient Fritzl the Schnitzl Ditzl Yeah! Day 5 presumptively heralding worse to come. In addition, light showers out of the northwest, barely an inch per hour expected.
Earliest Best of Show Statuette presentation:
Highest award of participant participation to A & B without whom we never would have survived (Mrs.Voltaren (Mrs. let me translate your need for cream to hotel reception BEA!(Mrs.Yodel the name Sally throughout the Alps))).
Highest award for claimed most willing to frequently participate ":Herr Schitzl Bily! Mr. I will be there for 10 days!". Little did we know he meant only for the party at the end!
Most Valued Player - The Eyeball
Best Leader - Gaius Maximus Caesar
Most willing follower - She who is the ROCKn'ROLL foot massager without par.
In the words of the immortal Paul Simon,
"Still whining after all these years (1), still whining after allllllll theeeeese years.".
That's a wrap. Post it on the site.
Friday, December 07, 2007
Last Day... much, much later
Friday December 7th, 2007
Well, I think I'm almost ready to start the post-H2H work -- correcting / completing the website, transmuting the base material of blog into an elegant and entertaining narrative, deciding what to do about the photos and the GPS logs, and so on... -- but first some unfinished business: the short tale of the last day of the H2H.
After one of the best breakfasts we had had on the entire trip, at the charming B&B La Demeure, we started from Eyguieres around 10AM... in the rain. This was both unusual, since it had hardly rained in Provence since Spring, and appropriate, since it had also rained on us during our first day of hiking so many months ago. But we didn't care much... it was, after all, the last day.
We walked for the most part along fairly quiet backroads on the south side of the Alpilles until Aureille. There the showers stopped and we turned north to climb over the hills... although since our maximum altitude was barely 200m higher than Aureille, it is perhaps a little bit of an exaggeration to call it a climb. Around midday we stopped for a picnic lunch by the side of the road, and soon, after one last look backwards, we started our descent towards the lovely village of Eygalieres.
Some time later, a couple of hundred yards before we got to our house, we were met by a procession led by Lidia (aka Penelope), who was unable to withstand temptation any longer. Richard was there, and Bea and Arnulf, and various other friends and relatives, and after many greetings and hugs and photos we finally walked through our gate at around 3:30PM.. four months and four days after we started... exactly as planned.
It was quite a feeling.
And then came the Neverest Fest, which although not totally Dionysiac, ran for near on a week instead of the three days that were planned. Ah well, nobody's perfect. :-)
And that's about it for now. I'll post intermittently over the next couple of months as there are new things to see on the site, or as (and if) the narratative takes shape. I hope that you have enjoyed reading about the H2H as much as I enjoyed hiking and writing about it. Many thanks to you all!
Well, I think I'm almost ready to start the post-H2H work -- correcting / completing the website, transmuting the base material of blog into an elegant and entertaining narrative, deciding what to do about the photos and the GPS logs, and so on... -- but first some unfinished business: the short tale of the last day of the H2H.
After one of the best breakfasts we had had on the entire trip, at the charming B&B La Demeure, we started from Eyguieres around 10AM... in the rain. This was both unusual, since it had hardly rained in Provence since Spring, and appropriate, since it had also rained on us during our first day of hiking so many months ago. But we didn't care much... it was, after all, the last day.
We walked for the most part along fairly quiet backroads on the south side of the Alpilles until Aureille. There the showers stopped and we turned north to climb over the hills... although since our maximum altitude was barely 200m higher than Aureille, it is perhaps a little bit of an exaggeration to call it a climb. Around midday we stopped for a picnic lunch by the side of the road, and soon, after one last look backwards, we started our descent towards the lovely village of Eygalieres.
Some time later, a couple of hundred yards before we got to our house, we were met by a procession led by Lidia (aka Penelope), who was unable to withstand temptation any longer. Richard was there, and Bea and Arnulf, and various other friends and relatives, and after many greetings and hugs and photos we finally walked through our gate at around 3:30PM.. four months and four days after we started... exactly as planned.
It was quite a feeling.
And then came the Neverest Fest, which although not totally Dionysiac, ran for near on a week instead of the three days that were planned. Ah well, nobody's perfect. :-)
And that's about it for now. I'll post intermittently over the next couple of months as there are new things to see on the site, or as (and if) the narratative takes shape. I hope that you have enjoyed reading about the H2H as much as I enjoyed hiking and writing about it. Many thanks to you all!
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