Tuesday, May 17, 2011

Day 5 -- Berrynarbor to Mortehoe

I need a fresh set of hikers! All four of them took a taxi from Lee Bay after lunch instead of walking the remaining distance to Mortehoe. Oh, they claimed to have reasons -- Franz and Ingrid knee problems, Lidia hating the wind again, and Christine, most creatively, said that she had been dreaming about work and needed to spend an afternoon working in order to stop the dreams -- but after all the explaining and excusing was done, the fact remains that only yours truly finished the hike.

We had had a suprisingly good meal the night before in The Olde Globe Inn in Berrynarbor, followed by an early night, so I was expecting great things of the troops today. But the weather didn't cooperate (light drizzle and once again windy), and by Ilfracombe (around midday) they were starting to lose focus, and as we walked down into Lee Bay it was clear that they were done.

We had a nice lunch in the 14th Century Grampus Inn, and then I left them to their taxi and walked the remaining few miles alone. Glad I did, because it was a great walk -- up and down coastal bluffs, on well laid paths or across close-cropped sward, past impressive rocks and cliffs and a working 800,000 candlepower lighthouse at Bull Point, to the aptly named Morte Point -- said to be the place that God made last and the Devil will take first.

It's about as raw and rough as that description suggests, with a current flowing past its tip so strong that standing waves were forming for 100 meters out from the shore. With the wind driving waves across the current to break on the point, and various reefs off-shore, it isn't surprising that several ships a year used to be wrecked here before the Bull Point lighthouse was built.

And now I'm showered, clean, toasty warm... and I need fresh hikers!

:-)